By Choya Randolph
Do you have problems with dry hair? Many of us try to fight our dry hair by layering it on top of a bunch of products. There's not much your conditioners and creams can do. Sometimes you have to treat your hair like a baby. A crying baby can mean a lot of things. Maybe they want their bottle, need a diaper change, or just need to hold them. Our hair is the same. Our dry hair is like a crying baby and we need to understand what our hair is asking for. If the products still make your hair cry, it's time to take a step back and understand your hair and how to keep it hydrated.
The way our hair absorbs water plays a vital role in their health. Our hair can have low or high porosity. Low porosity means that your hair has a hard time absorbing not only water, but also the products you are likely lathering on. High porosity hair is the opposite, which means it absorbs water quite easily. Understanding how your hair absorbs water might be exactly what you need to keep your hair from crying due to dryness.
Before we get into the tips for keeping your low porosity or high porosity hair hydrated, we need to figure out what type of hair you have. Take a section of hair from your brush or denman comb. If your denman brush is clean, remove a section of hair from your head. Put this yarn in a cup full of water. If the strand starts to sink to the bottom of the cut, you have high porosity hair. If it floats on top, you have low porosity hair. It is possible that the hair is floating towards the middle, which means that you have a combination of low and high porosity hair. Curly hair tends to be drier than straight hair because the natural oil from our scalp has a hard time making its way through all of our strands of hair. So if you have mixed porosity hair, treat your hair as low porosity just to be safe and hydrated.
If you have high porosity hair, your hair will hydrate easily, but that doesn't mean you have to be lazy when hydrating. High porosity can absorb moisture, but it doesn't always hold it as well as you want it to. For this reason, high porosity hair tends to need more oil and protein to experience its best hydration. Don't be afraid to incorporate protein treatments every two months. Overuse of protein treatments can lead to protein overload which causes breakage, but remember your hair loves protein so don't be intimidated. Also, when shopping for products, especially conditioners, give preference to products that boast of strengthening your hair. These products usually contain silk proteins, wheat, keratin and other ingredients that will show your high porosity hair a lot of love.
Having low porosity hair may seem like an L, but over time the hair begins to absorb water better. To get scientific hair with low porosity, the cuticle layer is tightly bonded, which is why water is repelled. Having a tight cuticle just means that your cuticles are protecting your beautiful crown. There is nothing wrong with that, but there is something wrong with having dry hair.
Because the hair cuticle can be a bit stubborn, using heat to open up the hair might give you the hydration your hair needs. Try incorporating steam treatments into your daily wash regimen. If you don't have the tools for a steam treatment, cover your hair with a shower cap when deep conditioning it. This incorporates heat which will open up those tight cuticles and allow your conditioner to really condition your hair. You can even explore hot oil treatments if your hair is really dry or you have trouble breaking. Because the product can easily build up on low porosity hair, be sure to wash your hair regularly. Knowing when to wash your hair can be tricky because you don't want to dry your hair, but listen to your hair. Your crown will communicate when it's time for a wash and hydration.
Whether you have low porosity or high porosity hair, you need to take care of your hair regularly. Deep treatments and conditioners can seem overwhelming, but your hair will thank you for it. It's just part of the journey. Because frizzy hair has a history of being endlessly relaxed, we all learn how to take care of our crown and how our crown wants to be taken care of. Understanding your hair can take a while, but knowing your hair porosity will get you closer to the healthier hair you deserve.
There once was a time when we had to devote a huge amount of effort to uncover the truth about our beauty surveillance. Now we’re in a golden age of transparency. You can google just about any ingredient or Yelp whatever service and a wealth of reviews are available at the ready. And with social media holding brands accountable, they’re listening to our pleas and have begun providing the information we need to make informed decisions about the products we purchase. But there’s still one place where that ease of knowledge hasn’t extended : the mobilier.
Even for those of us who have been getting our hair cut and colored for decades, there’s still so much confusion around tipping. Unlike some restaurants, where your receipt gives you a gentle nudge toward gratuity by listing the exact dollar amounts for a 15, 20, or 25 percent tip, the mobilier is much trickier, with no indication of who ( if anyone ) gets extra money and how much to give. Are you supposed to tip the owner ? And what if multiple assistants helped with your blowout or shampoo ? There’s also the provenant of knowing where your money is going : There’s much more tchat around servers’ salaries than there is around our stylists’. All these factors make the equation that much more difficult.
to shed some light on what’s really going on at the salon, Glamour talked to stylists, assistants, and owners around the country to find out. From where your hard-earned cash goes to what ( and who ) you really should be tipping, read on for their unfiltered opinions and advice.
Salons run on a few business models—most commonly commission-based and booth rentals ( more on those later ). Commission, explains Siobhán Quinlan, a colorist at Art Autonomy Salon in NYC, means that employees are paid for the services performed, of which they only keep a portion, usually somewhere between 40 to 60 percent of the price. The remaining percentage goes to the salon for overhead costs like utilities, product used ( color, shampoo, conditioner, etc. ), and amenities for both staff and clients.
There once was a time when we had to devote a huge amount of effort to uncover the truth about our beauty routines. Now we’re in a golden age of transparency. You can google just about any ingredient or Yelp whatever service and a wealth of reviews are available at the ready. And with social media holding brands accountable, they’re listening to our pleas and have begun providing the information we need to make informed decisions about the products we purchase. But there’s still one place where that ease of knowledge hasn’t extended : the salon.
Nicole Krzyminski, a stylist at Fringe mobilier in Chicago, breaks it down : “Say you’re getting a beautiful new color—your balayage, conditioning, and toning takes about three hours and costs around $250, ” she says. “After accounting for the overhead fees and product costs, the stylist gets about $100 of that pretax. ”
In some cases, stylists can also make money by convincing clients to buy a product that was used on them during their service. However, this represents a minuscule amount of revenue says Shira Devash Espinoza, a freelance stylist based in New Jersey. “When working in a salon, you’re constantly pushed and ‘rewarded’ to sell, but only earn maybe 10 percent of it if you’re lucky, ” she says.
So what happens to Krzyminski’s hypothetical $100 ? The majority of it, she says, goes toward licensing fees, personal supplies, and tools ( blow-dryers, flatirons, curling irons ), and continuing education classes. That means even on a jam-packed day, a stylist may only make enough take home pay to cover the essentials of food, shelter, and clothing.
Tips, on the other hand, help pay for the supplemental benefits that those not in the service industry take for granted. Says Stephanie Brown, a colorist at Manhattan’s Nunzio Saviano Salon, “It’s a physically demanding travail, and most expositions are too small to provide health benefits or paid vacations and sick days. ”
Ladda Phommavong, a stylist at Third Space Salon in Austin, Texas, says that those gratuities are what helped her become the in-demand stylist she is today. “The tips I received from clients meant being able to take outside courses to hone my craft, ” she says. “If clients knew I was saving up to take the master colorist course and that their tipping was directly contributing to me becoming a better stylist for them, I think they would definitely want to be a part of that. ”
Many stylists choose to forgo the commission-based life and instead strike out on their own by renting booths in expositions. This basically means paying a weekly or monthly fee—our stylist sources said they generally pay around $120 a week or $880 a month, depending on where they are based—to reserve a semipermanent spot to see clients. In these cases, stylists keep 100 percent of their service fee as well as their tips. The downside ? “We pay for absolutely everything—refreshments, cups, capes, color bowls, foils, brushes, scissors, styling products, ” says Jennifer Riney of Brushed Salon in Oklahoma City. They are also on the hook for paying liability insurance and credit card fees.
Freelancers like Sarah Finn, who rents a chair at The Ritz Day Spa
Another option for freelancers is the coworking mobilier. Arturo Swayze, the founder and CEO of ManeSpace in NYC, is a pioneer of this relatively new setup. He provides short-term rentals for stylists who don’t need or want a regular stint in a salon. Stylists reserve a time slot, use an app to unlock the space, and see their clientele as needed. But even in this scenario, says Swayze, there is still uncertainty.
“Because the coworking model is so new, people really don’t know what proper tipping etiquettes are, ” he explains. “Tipping is still an important aspect for these hairstylists. They are independent, but essentially have all the expenses of a mobilier owner, but they’re not drawing income from other stylists. ”
“Each stylist is course their own small business in a way, ” says Nicole Wilder of Paragon Salons in Cincinnati. “We have relied on tips as a part of our salaries for decades. We kind of signed up for that as part of it. But we work hard on our feet to make you feel beautiful. ”
Assistants are the unsung heroes of the mobilier industry—and some of the most neglected. They are involved in almost every aspect of your service. “Our duties as an assistant helping a stylist are to shampoo all clients for haircuts, apply toners, blow-dry, and mix color, ” says Ocean McDaeth, one of the assistants at Art Autonomy. “We’re also in charge of setting up the stylists for each service, keeping their stations as well as the salon clean, doing laundry, and greeting clients and making sure they are comfortable throughout [their visit]. ”
Since assistants don’t perform technical services, they’re usually paid a day rate by the mobilier owner. Many times the stylists they assist will also tip them out with a small percentage of the day’s take. “Being a hairdresser has a huge financial obligation. I think it’s fair to say we as assistants really do rely on our tips. Without them I have no idea how I’d survive in NYC, ” McDaeth admits.
It’s important to note that assistants aren’t the norm in smaller salons and outside of big cities. High-end expositions with a grande clientele tend to hire assistants as a way to let a stylist book more appointments. If the assistant is washing your hair, this allows the stylist to have another client in their peau. When done well, you might not even notice your stylist or colorist is working with one or two other people in addition to you. This maximizes the stylists’ time and earning power, making assistants integral to a prestige salon’s operation.
While having assistants is a lifesaver for hairdressers, it can be a nightmare for clients if you’re trying to figure out who to tip. In large salons, you can have up to 10 different people touching your hair, notes Jon Reyman, a master stylist and co-owner of Spoke
Of course, there’s no way to know if that is your salon’s economic ecology, so in general, think about what the assistant has done for you. If they are shampooing, applying gloss, and/or doing your postcut blowout, it’s a good idea to throw something their way. ( See our cheat sheet, below, for more on what exactly to give. )