Award Winning Homebrew Recipe: Berliner Weisse
posted by Steve severn in Homebrewing Recipes Marked with apricot, prize winner, premium, Berliner Weisse, Berliner Weissebeer, Berliner Weissebeir, Blackberry, Dry jump, Adding fruit, Kiwi, Woodruff syrup Award-winning Homebrew recipe: Berliner Weisse, 4.5 out of 5 based on 26 notes VN: F [1.9.22_1171]Rating: 4.5 /5 (26 votes cast) One of my favorite basic styles to […]

Award-winning Homebrew recipe: Berliner Weisse, 4.5 out of 5 based on 26 notes

VN: F [1.9.22_1171]

Rating: 4.5 /5 (26 votes cast)


One of my favorite basic styles to brew.

Berliner Weisse is a cloudy, sour, low SRM beer of around 3% vol.

ABV range: 2.8 - 3.8%
IBU range: 3 - 8
Color: pale straw
Malt: Pilsner malt, malted wheat
Yeast: Ale, Brettanomyces
Bacteria: Lactobacillus

With this recipe, it's extremely simple to adjust this base if it turns into Gose w / spices, adding fruit (preferably Oregon Fruit Products), dry hopping with new world additions (like Nelson Sauvin or Motueka), or even just serving it with a traditional woodruff syrup .. I wanted to give all of these recipes and more to break it down with what has worked well for me in the past.

Awards received

1st place at the Southern California Homebrew Competition (2015)
3rd place at the San Diego County Fair (2016)
2nd place at the Pacific Brewers Cup (2016)
(not illustrated)

MioIMG_3650 (1)

Home brewing recipe: Berliner Weisse

SG 1.033
ABV 3.5%
FG 1.004
pH 3.35


# 1) .5L of 1.030 Lacto Brevis on a heating pad at 89 ° for 24-48 hours -> Starter reassembled to 1.75L of 1.035 wort + 1 oz of Pilsner malt crushed for 24-36 hours to poach


The water:

75% RO / 25% filtered carbon

Water profile:

California Mg N / A s04 Cl HCO3
50 5 8 40 15 4

Grain bill:

- 4.5 lbs of Pilsner malt
- 2.1 lbs of wheat malt

Mash potatoes:

# 1 Mash for 50 minutes at 148 °
# 2 Add 1 oz of hop puree at 30 minutes (Saaz is preferable, (Pellet, 3.9% AA))
# 3 Mashout for 10 minutes at 172 °


# 1 Mash Hop (see Mash above)


This recipe is without boiling. Since lighter malts, like Pilsner malt can get a precursor to DMS, it is good to keep it from boiling or boiling it for 90 minutes.

In this recipe, I bring up to 210 ° and I cool immediately.

Once cooled, take a pH reading and acidify to 4.2 to limit the growth of Clostridium butyricum and other potential bad tasting bacteria.


Using my 2-stage cooler, my cooling practice involves

# 1 - 210 ° F -> 130 ° F (plate cooler) which recirculates in the kettle causing a vortex
# 2 - 130 ° F -> 90 ° F (turn on immersion cooler)


Primary fermentation

# 1 Pitch lactobacillus starter at 86 ° F for 7 days)
# 2 Pitch Season / Brett Culture (Yeast Bay Season / Brett Blend)
- Usually most recipes require neutral yeast to complete the primary fermentation, but I always prefer everything with brett. Using brett will make this beer go through a 3 month fermentation instead of 1 month. There are a few other varieties of finish that I want to use in the future (a being Yeast Bay Funk Town Pale Ale which is essentially Conan + Saccharomyces "bruxellensis" Three (ie the false)).

Once the primary is done, you can follow one of the variations below: dry hopping, fruit additions, plain with Woodruff syrup.

Berliner Weisse variations:

Dry jump:

Dry hop is probably one of my favorite recipes, even if it doesn't fit any style rules.

Ideally, we think of specific blends that favor aromas of citrus or stone fruit. Below are a few hop blends that have worked well.

# 1) 40% Amarillo / 40% Simcoe / 20% Centenary
# 2) 100% Nelson Sauvin
# 3) 60% Citra / 40% Amarillo
# 4) 33% Jaryllo / 33% Motueka / 33% El Dorado


The key to the dry jump is to limit ALL oxygen after the primary. My setup is designed to store (w / Co2) in a dry hop cask purged on loose hops. My process was adapted by the wonderful people at Bear Flavored. You can read his article "How I Dry-Hop My IPAs Without Oxygen Pickup and Clogged DrumsAnd follow Derek and all his craft brewing skills. Regardless of how you dry the hops, I always suggest larger amounts and less contact time.

With my timing I tend to use about 8 oz of dry hops and stay in suspension with a blast of C02 to keep the hops in suspension for 3 days and transfer the deposited hops to a serving keg to be forcibly carbonated. at 3.0 vol.

Fruit additions:

I have had wonderful success with Oregon Fruit Products in my sour beers. These fruit additions can vary depending on how much you want to remove. A good starting point for this base is about 0.5 lbs per gallon.

Some products available to consumers:

  • Blackberry
  • Gooseberry
  • Blueberry

Otherwise, Vintner's Harvest has a few alternatives available.

  • Apricot
  • Kiwi (start at around 0.75 lbs / gallon)
  • Raspberry (start at around 0.75 lbs / gallon)

Once the primary fermentation has slowed down or ended, do not hesitate to divide your batch over the fruit puree. Personally I would have liked to have had better 3 gallon bottles for drying different variations between batches. At this point you will want to make sure that the secondary fermentation is complete before bottling or keg.

When serving your homemade Berliner Weisse, be sure to concoct woodruff syrup (flavored or not). Michael of the Mad Fermentationist gave a good breakdown of his Berliner Weisse recipe and some examples of Woodruff in his article "Berliner Weisse - 1st tasting".


(and yes I upgraded my pH meter instead of using that crappy $ 10 from Amazon)

Some other alternative resources from really awesome people discussing Berliner Weisse

Design and prepare a Berliner Weisse

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Rating: 4.5 /5 (26 votes cast)



Whether it’s your first time with a kit, or your hundredth all-grain brew, you need to ferment it in something suitable. Most of the time your alternatives are between a bucket and a carboy. Carboys or demijohns look nicer, especially if they’re glass, but can be a pain to clean. Food-grade plastic buckets lack glamour, but are practical – just make sure you get one with a close-fitting lid that’s suitable for an airlock. As with most things there are more expensive alternatives, but while they’re good, they’re not necessary. You can find buckets and demijohns at Brew Store or The Malt Miller.

If you’re making beer, then you need to be rigorous about cleanliness during the brew. VWP is an absolutely no-nonsense cleaner and steriliser for getting everything ready beforehand. During the brew, a no-rinse sanitiser is invaluable. Between the two, spoilt and infected beer shouldn’t be a problem. You can buy cleaning products online from Brew Store and The Malt Miller.

Invest in some airtight plastic conteneurs. Malt, kept dry and cool, should be fine for six months, but get rid of it after that – you’re only going to get stale flavours if you use stale malt. Likewise, dried yeast will keep, if sealed and chilled, but it will lose potency and reliability. Hops do not improve with age. Be doubtful of any before last year’s harvest, however cheap.

While a good book is an invaluable reference, there will be a time you come across something that flummoxes you. It’s very unlikely you will be the first, and just as unlikely someone else hasn’t discussed it. From the magisterial, if abondant, How to Brew by John Palmer to the uncountable cercles d'entraides and blogs discussing minutiae, such as Brewer’s Friend, there’ll be something to help.

Avoid grande amounts of table sugar, cane sugar or dextrose as fermentable sugars in your homebrew. They will ferment out completely and leave a very dry, almost ‘cidery’ flavour to your beer. This is what is recognized by many as the ‘homebrew’ taste. If you are looking for an easy way to improve this, swap these sugars with dry malt extract.

Most kit beers are designed to appeal to a wide range of people and therefore have a fairly simple flavour that it not very bitter. They are also generally bittered by using hop extract that adds bitterness but little hop flavour or aroma. Boil some water and add ½ an ounce ( 14 grams ) of any hop variety known for their flavour and aroma characteristics for 20 minutes. This will add a much improved change to the flavour of the beer. Add another ½ ounce ( 14g ) for the last 5 minutes of the boil to add a pleasant hoppy aroma. Simply strain the ‘hop soup’ into your fermenter with the rest of the top-up water. These simple hops additions will make a remarkable difference to your pack beers.

tera wake a packet of dry yeast up and ensure that it is ready to start work as soon as it is pitched, try rehydrating it. Boil a cup ( 250mls ) of water for 5 minutes and then pour it into a sterilized conteneur. Wait for the water to cool down to at least 80°F/27°C and sprinkle your packet of yeast over the top. Leave this for about 15-30 minutes, when you should start to see it get nice and foamy. Once your wort has cooled enough, pitch this and it will start fermentation much earlier.

If you would really like to get things started, follow the process above but add a tablespoon of dry malt extract to the water before boiling it. After pouring the water to a jar, add your yeast when cool enough and place cling wrap over the top to protect from the environment. Leave for at least 45 minutes at room temperature and you should start to see fermentation activity.

The length of time for fermentation on the side of your coffret beer can is almost definitely not long enough. The manufacturers are in the business of selling product and these informations will make beer, but it won’t be great beer. This should be extended out to 10-14 days.

Although your beer will be carbonated after about a week in the bottle, leave it for a few more to allow for the flavors to settle. This is especially relevant for beer made from kits as it will help remove some of the tige found in young/’green’ beer.

In order to efficiently multiply and get to the of converting sugar to alcohol, yeast needs a sufficient amount of oxygen in your wort. If brewing using malt extract this can be reached a few ways including by shaking the water you are using to top up your wort, or by pouring it from a great height into your fermenter.

Don’t be too worried about removing your beer from the primary fermenter as soon as fermentation has finished. The Autolysis that you are seeking to avoid will take well over a month and in most cases a solo stage fermentation is fine.

If you are looking to control fermentation temperature, place the fermenter in a grande container of water to cool it and prevent temperature fluctuations. Wrapping a wet towel around it and pointing a fou at it cools it even more through evaporative cooling. A few frozen plastic bottles of water are also perfect for cooling the water and your fermenting beer.

If you insist on using a two stage fermentation, use a bottling bucket ( or something else with a spigot ) for a primary. That way you only need a length of hose to rack into the secondary. The spigot will also be far enough off the bottom that the trub will get left in the primary with little extra effort – just tilt the fermenter forward at the end.

The activity of your airlock should only be seen as one indication that something is happening. There are many others indications and a faulty seal on your fermenter could stop anything from happening in the airlock.

The starting cell count is usually quite low with liquid yeast d'environnement. If you make a yeast starter about a day before brewing, you can avoid some potential issues from under-pitching the yeast.

If you are trying to cool a partial boil, place the whole brew bocal into a sink or tub of cold water. You may need to change this water a few times but it is far easier to cool a small bocal of wort in a temperature conductive container ( i. e. your brew bocal ) than a grande amount of liquid in a fermenter. Adding your cooled wort to even colder water ( or ice ) in the fermenter will serve to cool it even further and should hopefully get you close to yeast pitching temperatures.

Dry yeast packets are perfect for new homebrewers. They have a nice high cell count and are very easy to use. Hydrating these takes very little time and will help get fermentation sérieux earlier.

Get into the habit of sanitizing everything that will come in contact with your wort or beer after the boil.

Extract kits have come a long way from the dusty back shelves of Boots of yesteryear, and give you a simple, affordable way to try out the hobby with very acceptable results. Established breweries like St. Peters and Woodfordes have decent kits in shops and online at about £20, for example from Wilko or Brew.

Use a no-rinse sanitiser… This shouldn’t need an explanation and I am yet to hear of a real reason not to

Following on from above – Don’t use bleach as a sanitizer…ever. It is to rinse out and if any comes in contact with the maltose in your wort it has the potential to completely ruin your batch. There are so many better products available that this shouldn’t even be a consideration

Whatever sanitizer you use, put some of it in a spray bottle for quick sanitation during brew time.

Make sure you read and understand the recipe before you start brewing. Also make sure that you have all the ingredients handy before you start. These seem like simple things but the last 15 minutes can get a little crazy… especially if you started drinking while sanitizing

Beer is very resilient so don’t be too worried if you make a mistake while brewing. Although it may not be exactly the beer you were after, you will probably still have something tasty and worth drinking.

Leave the lid off your brew bocal while it is boiling. The process of boiling actually vaporises chemicals that are not wanted in the beer and they evaporate out. The lid doesn’t need to be completely off if you are having dysfonctionnement maintaining a rolling boil but should at least be enough for the steam to escape.

Keep a record of every beer that you make, no matter how simple the recipe. This record will allow you to recall and tweak your brews when all that remains in the future is a couple of stray bottles and a desire for more

Especially when starting out, keep your ingredients and brews as simple as possible. It is much easier to add to a simple recipe that is missing something than it is to remove from something complex

Start by getting a solid grasp of the sanitization, fermentation and bottling processes and work from there.

If you have a choice, choose a fermenter or bottling bucket with a spigot/tap over one without. The siphoning required otherwise isn’t but it is still one more unnecessary step.

Bulk priming your beer is a simple addition to your bottling process that will add much greater control and consistency in the amount of priming sugar in your bottles.

The quality of your beer will be relative to the quality of the ingredients used. Always go for the freshest and best quality possible. Always make sure that extract is within any specified dates, yeast is fresh and that hops are nice and green

But most importantly… just relax and remember that you probably aren’t going to ruin your beer – It isn’t as delicate as you think


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