Time flies when you're having fun. I've probably started more than one of these posts with this quip since it all started, haven't I. I probably should have had my head examined. Except. I have. Twice this week. Drove a pleasant 1.5-hour drive to a sleepy rural district hospital for some sort of poll on Monday and one closer this week. Nothing serious. * Prick and push. The joys of the middle ages with the next step in sight. If I take a third test this week, I might be able to receive a top hat like the one above. The image of the West Sussex Archives triggered a lot of interesting chat about the nature of their outfits and that clay pipe, but it's the beer mugs that are the stopper of the show. Are they pints or pints? I have a smaller version, a 1940s green Wedgewood that sits proudly on a shelf.
Yes. The distinction between these two glasses is based on history and tradition. Subtle differences in design aside, they come from different places and have been containers for different styles of beer. Plus, getting it right adds to our drinking experience, which is important for breweries in today's market.
I prefer to mess things up and enjoy the way they work - like having IPA in a weissebier glass. Or in a frozen a. Speaking of being his own master at the little things, Matthew L wrote about the state of his personal nation as another foreclosure hit by a consumer. point of view:
The final straw for me was the aforementioned level 3 ad. All pubs not serving "hearty meals" were to close. This kiboshed most of my typical weekend. I considered walking to Spoons, or one of the nearby places that make food, sit alone with a pizza and 2 pints, and then come home (how many 'substantial meals' can someone? - consume it in one day). Any fun I got wasn't worth the effort on top of everything I had to do.
From a consumer's point of view, this Publish from Kirsty of Lady pours alcohol on the moments she missed, including missing the train:
Since getting a promotion and a raise, I have done what a lot of working class people do and desperately tried to avoid working class people. Instead of the bus (albeit the wifi-enabled luxury express bus with disco-style lighting), I now take the train and pay over a ton for a monthly pass. Of course, since privatization there are three different trains to get home and because I'm tight I'll never pay extra to get the train from a different company if I miss mine. Therefore, I'm going to spend £ 9 on beer, to save the train fare £ 5.60.
Vaccines soon. That's what I think. Others too - rather than pretending that owning a brewery means you know more than public health officials, Kenya's Tusker shares the security message:
Speaking about the campaign, Ann Joy Muhoro, Beer Marketing Manager at EABL, said: “Tusker believes Kenyans can enjoy their favorite drink with friends in a safe and responsible manner, according to established protocols. That is why, through the “dundaing” campaign, we encourage our consumers to adhere to established health protocols, as they enjoy their Tuskerat home or in a bar. "
Historically, Bailey and Boak have studied the introduction of the jukebox to the British pub and shared their results:
This turns out to be surprisingly easy to pin down thanks to the novelty value of these electronic music boxes which guaranteed them press coverage. It can be said, with some certainty, that the first pub jukeboxes arrived in Britain in the late 1940s. Even before that date, however, the term "jukebox" or "jukebox" was familiar to the British through American reporting.
Currently slightly obsessed with TGL-7764, the East German standard for beer. It's basically a beer style guideline with some brewing instructions. The only thing I struggle with is the color, however, it is provided in NFE and „Einheiten nach Brand“ and I have no idea what that is.
And then he followed up with a link to the TGL-7764. Neato. Likewise mucho neato, Stan wrote about the 107 words to describe hops, but neither “twig” nor “lawnmower stuck in a weed ditch” appears so I'm not sure I can give it much credit. But that's just me.
In China, new hydrogen-powered trucks are used to deliver beer:
The Asian subsidiary of beverage giant Anheuser-Busch InBev SA / NV, meanwhile, has added four hydrogen trucks to its fleet, the company announced on September 28. It plans to deliver beer using trucks, making China the first country where the company has deployed such vehicles for beer shipments.
Martyn found an excellent cartoon from 32 years ago, framing thoughts of the time on low-alcohol, non-alcoholic beer. I must say that I am of the same opinion. It can lead to things, that sort of thing. Again this week I watched two grown adults who always seemed to have a full set of marbles keep on going on the wonders of sparkling water. What they seem to be paying money for. The money they earn. With effort.
My thoughts, as always have been, "the style of historic beer" is an oxymoron. "Style" is a modern international construction, a form that brewers brew. As Ron has effectively proven that in the past, forms of beer were brewed to brewery standards to meet local market expectations. Different names for similar things and similar names for different things were far too common.** Andreas Krennmair *** explored both the oxy and the moron in his Publish this week on Dampfbier which has that added excitement of relating to a variant of "steam»- a word that many want to own but never seem to understand:
The problem here is, if the origin story of a style of beer sounds too good to be true, it probably isn't rooted in the story. Naive, I would just ask why other beers like Weißbier brewed with wheat malt wouldn't have the same name because the yeast would supposedly ferment so vigorously. However, when we examine the historical sources, an entirely different picture is unveiled ...
And finally, Matty C. posted an article this week on a topic close to my heart - the disutility of All Artistic Fartsy Craft Beer Cans:
Important elements like the beer style and ABV are too often - in my opinion - printed in a tiny font to make room for more artwork, or not even appear on the front at all. of a can. And while that's not a problem for most hardened beer fans, for those who exist outside of the beer fandom bubble (and let's be honest with ourselves here, that's most people) , it actually makes it harder for people to tell the difference between brands. The result of this? Consumers are moving back to old, loyal brands - likely owned by large multinationals - and moving away from craft beer.
The sentence I shared was "barfing gum machineFor these things. Many other thoughtful comments were shared.
Finished! Soon - December !!! In the meantime, don't forget to read your weekly updates from Boak and Bailey almost every Saturday, and more at OCBG Podcast Tuesdays and sometimes Fridays messages to The Fizz as well as. And sign up for Katie's weekly newsletter, The Gulp, as well. Plus the venerable Full Pint Podcast. And Fermentation radio with Emma Inch. There is the AfroBeer podcast too! And take a look at Brewsround and Cabin fever. And Ben has his own podcast, Beer and Badword. And remember BeerEdge, as well. Go!
*More and more weird I am. It looks like I have a fully formed molar sunk deep into my cheekbone. He does nothing. Just sit there. Thank you for paying your taxes so this can be confirmed.
**I tied him up there! Why are you looking here too?
***For the double!!!!
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Whether it’s your first time with a pack, or your hundredth all-grain brew, you need to ferment it in something suitable. Most of the time your alternatives are between a bucket and a carboy. Carboys or demijohns look nicer, especially if they’re glass, but can be a pain to clean. Food-grade plastic buckets lack glamour, but are practical – just make sure you get one with a close-fitting lid that’s suitable for an airlock. As with most things there are more expensive possibilités, but while they’re good, they’re not necessary. You can find buckets and demijohns at Brew Store or The Malt Miller.
If you’re making beer, then you need to be rigorous about cleanliness during the brew. VWP is an absolutely no-nonsense cleaner and steriliser for getting everything ready beforehand. During the brew, a no-rinse sanitiser is invaluable. Between the two, spoilt and infected beer shouldn’t be a problem. You can buy cleaning products online from Brew Store and The Malt Miller.
Invest in some airtight plastic conteneurs. Malt, kept dry and cool, should be fine for six months, but get rid of it after that – you’re only going to get stale flavours if you use stale malt. Likewise, dried yeast will keep, if sealed and chilled, but it will lose potency and reliability. Hops do not improve with age. Be doubtful of any before last year’s harvest, however cheap.
While a good book is an invaluable reference, there will be a time you come across something that flummoxes you. It’s very unlikely you will be the first, and just as unlikely someone else hasn’t discussed it. From the magisterial, if abondant, How to Brew by John Palmer to the uncountable cercles d'entraides and blogs discussing minutiae, such as Brewer’s Friend, there’ll be something to help.
Avoid grande amounts of table sugar, cane sugar or dextrose as fermentable sugars in your homebrew. They will ferment out completely and leave a very dry, almost ‘cidery’ flavour to your beer. This is what is recognized by many as the ‘homebrew’ taste. If you are looking for an easy way to improve this, swap these sugars with dry malt extract.
Most coffret beers are designed to appeal to a wide range of people and therefore have a fairly simple flavour that it not very bitter. They are also generally bittered by using hop extract that adds bitterness but little hop flavour or aroma. Boil some water and add ½ an ounce ( 14 grams ) of any hop variety known for their flavour and aroma characteristics for 20 minutes. This will add a much improved change to the flavour of the beer. Add another ½ ounce ( 14g ) for the last 5 minutes of the boil to add a pleasant hoppy aroma. Simply strain the ‘hop soup’ into your fermenter with the rest of the top-up water. These simple hops additions will make a remarkable difference to your pack beers.
tera wake a packet of dry yeast up and ensure that it is ready to start work as soon as it is pitched, try rehydrating it. Boil a cup ( 250mls ) of water for 5 minutes and then pour it into a sterilized conteneur. Wait for the water to cool down to at least 80°F/27°C and sprinkle your packet of yeast over the top. Leave this for about 15-30 minutes, when you should start to see it get nice and foamy. Once your wort has cooled enough, pitch this and it will start fermentation much earlier.
If you would really like to get things started, follow the process above but add a tablespoon of dry malt extract to the water before boiling it. After pouring the water to a jar, add your yeast when cool enough and place cling wrap over the top to protect from the environment. Leave for at least 45 minutes at room temperature and you should start to see fermentation activity.
The length of time for fermentation on the side of your pack beer can is almost definitely not long enough. The manufacturers are in the of selling product and these indications will make beer, but it won’t be great beer. This should be extended out to 10-14 days.
Although your beer will be carbonated after about a week in the bottle, leave it for a few more to allow for the flavors to settle. This is especially relevant for beer made from packs as it will help remove some of the biroute found in young/’green’ beer.
In order to efficiently multiply and get to the business of converting sugar to alcohol, yeast needs a sufficient amount of oxygen in your wort. If brewing using malt extract this can be reached a few ways including by shaking the water you are using to top up your wort, or by pouring it from a great height into your fermenter.
Don’t be too worried about removing your beer from the primary fermenter as soon as fermentation has finished. The Autolysis that you are seeking to avoid will take well over a month and in most cases a solo stage fermentation is fine.
If you are looking to control fermentation temperature, place the fermenter in a grande container of water to cool it and prevent temperature fluctuations. Wrapping a wet towel around it and pointing a amateur ou amatrice at it cools it even more through evaporative cooling. A few frozen plastic bottles of water are also perfect for cooling the water and your fermenting beer.
If you insist on using a two stage fermentation, use a bottling bucket ( or something else with a spigot ) for a primary. That way you only need a length of hose to rack into the secondary. The spigot will also be far enough off the bottom that the trub will get left in the primary with little extra effort – just tilt the fermenter forward at the end.
The activity of your airlock should only be seen as one indication that something is happening. There are many others indications and a faulty seal on your fermenter could stop anything from happening in the airlock.
The starting cell count is usually quite low with liquid yeast d'environnement. If you make a yeast starter about a day before brewing, you can avoid some potential issues from under-pitching the yeast.
If you are trying to cool a partial boil, place the whole brew pot into a sink or tub of cold water. You may need to change this water a few times but it is far easier to cool a small récipient of wort in a temperature conductive container ( i. e. your brew bocal ) than a grande amount of liquid in a fermenter. Adding your cooled wort to even colder water ( or ice ) in the fermenter will serve to cool it even further and should hopefully get you close to yeast pitching temperatures.
Dry yeast packets are perfect for new homebrewers. They have a nice high cell count and are very easy to use. Hydrating these takes very little time and will help get fermentation sérieux earlier.
Get into the habit of sanitizing everything that will come in contact with your wort or beer after the boil.
Extract packs have come a long way from the dusty back shelves of Boots of yesteryear, and give you a simple, affordable way to try out the hobby with very acceptable results. Established breweries like St. Peters and Woodfordes have decent kits in shops and online at about £20, for example from Wilko or Brew.
Use a no-rinse sanitiser… This shouldn’t need an explanation and I am yet to hear of a real reason not to
Following on from above – Don’t use bleach as a sanitizer…ever. It is hard to rinse out and if any comes in contact with the maltose in your wort it has the potential to completely ruin your batch. There are so many better products available that this shouldn’t even be a consideration
Whatever sanitizer you use, put some of it in a spray bottle for quick sanitation during brew time.
Make sure you read and understand the recipe before you start brewing. Also make sure that you have all the ingredients handy before you start. These seem like simple things but the last 15 minutes can get a little crazy… especially if you started drinking while sanitizing
Beer is very resilient so don’t be too worried if you make a mistake while brewing. Although it may not be exactly the beer you were after, you will probably still have something tasty and worth drinking.
Leave the lid off your brew bocal while it is boiling. The process of boiling actually vaporises chemicals that are not wanted in the beer and they evaporate out. The lid doesn’t need to be completely off if you are having trouble maintaining a rolling boil but should at least be enough for the steam to escape.
Keep a record of every beer that you make, no matter how simple the recipe. This record will allow you to recall and tweak your brews when all that remains in the future is a couple of stray bottles and a desire for more
Especially when starting out, keep your ingredients and brews as simple as possible. It is much easier to add to a simple recipe that is missing something than it is to remove from something complex
Start by getting a solid grasp of the sanitization, fermentation and bottling processes and work from there.
If you have a choice, choose a fermenter or bottling bucket with a spigot/tap over one without. The siphoning required otherwise isn’t but it is still one more unnecessary step.
Bulk priming your beer is a simple addition to your bottling process that will add much greater control and consistency in the amount of priming sugar in your bottles.
The quality of your beer will be to the quality of the ingredients used. Always go for the freshest and best quality possible. Always make sure that extract is within any specified dates, yeast is fresh and that hops are nice and green
But most importantly… just relax and remember that you probably aren’t going to ruin your beer – It isn’t as delicate as you think