Oils to Use When Doing the LOC or LCO Method
By Choya Randolph As a natural product, most of what we do to keep our hair healthy is to keep it hydrated. One of the most tried and true ways to achieve this is to use the LOC or LCO method. These methods are the main ways to hydrate our hair using liquid, oil and […]

By Choya Randolph

As a natural product, most of what we do to keep our hair healthy is to keep it hydrated. One of the most tried and true ways to achieve this is to use the LOC or LCO method. These methods are the main ways to hydrate our hair using liquid, oil and cream. The acronym refers to the command. Some of us like to use the classic LOC, conditioner, leave-in oil and cream. Some of us like to switch orders using a leave-in conditioner, cream, and then oil. Whichever method you prefer, the products you use are important for the hydration and health of your hair.

When it comes to which oil to use, there are so many options that it can seem overwhelming. This is when we experiment and find which oil works best for our hair. If you're looking for a place to start, let's move on to some of the popular oils that seasoned naturals use from their big chop.

Coconut oil

Is it more classic than coconut oil? It is a staple in the natural hair community. If you've ever kissed a natural and her hair smells amazing, it's probably because of the coconut oil. Besides giving our hair an amazing scent, coconut oil is full of fatty acids and vitamins that nourish our hair and scalp. It also makes the hair super soft. When using coconut oil, keep it organic. The only ingredient should be coconut oil. It also shouldn't look like oil unless it's hot. If your coconut oil looks thick and white and doesn't look like a bottle of canola oil, then you make amazing candy.

Extra virgin olive oil

I watched a video of a natural colleague using olive oil on her hair during the LOC method. I didn't think much about it until one day, I ran out of coconut oil. To great evils the great means. I went into the kitchen and put this olive oil to work and my sister did not disappoint. We know that olive oil can do its job when we cook, but when used on natural hair it can reduce scalp irritation and hydrate our hair. It is full of vitamin E and vitamin K which can revitalize hair, prevent heat damage and fight dandruff. When buying olive oil, use extra virgin olive oil as it is unrefined which means it has more vitamins and minerals that your hair will appreciate.

Argan Oil

If you want to keep your olive oil for cooking and not your hair, try argan oil. Argan oil is really that girl. Similar to olive oil, it is rich in vitamin E. If your hair is a bit rough, argan oil will soften your hair. It will also give elasticity to your hair which will make it easier for your hair to bounce against any heat applied. It's a great oil to use if your hair is prone to breakage. Although the oil is used as a sealer, argan oil seals and penetrates the hair to hydrate it and make it look sleek.

Almond oil

Almond oil is full of good things that your hair will love. Yes, it does contain vitamin E, but it also contains fatty acids from coconut oil. To really give your hair a boost, it contains biotin, magnesium, flavonoids and more vitamins and minerals that will nourish your hair. It works well to lubricate the hair so that no strands of hair are left behind. It helps fight drought and breakage.

Oil can do a lot for our hair. It conditions, protects, hydrates and more. When using the LOC or LCO method, the role of the oil is to seal in your conditioner or leave-in cream, which most oils will do. So don't overthink which oil you should be committing to and don't be afraid to mix the oils together to really reap these benefits. At the end of the day, everyone's hair is different. Find the oil that's right for you and enjoy!


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There once was a time when we had to devote a huge amount of effort to uncover the truth about our beauty routines. Now we’re in a golden age of transparency. You can google just about any ingredient or Yelp whatever service and a wealth of reviews are available at the ready. And with social media holding brands accountable, they’re listening to our pleas and have begun providing the information we need to make informed decisions about the products we purchase. But there’s still one place where that ease of knowledge hasn’t extended : the mobilier.

Even for those of us who have been getting our hair cut and colored for decades, there’s still so much confusion around tipping. Unlike some restaurants, where your receipt gives you a gentle nudge toward gratuity by listing the exact dollar amounts for a 15, 20, or 25 percent tip, the salon is much trickier, with no indication of who ( if anyone ) gets extra money and how much to give. Are you supposed to tip the owner ? And what if multiple assistants helped with your blowout or shampoo ? There’s also the provenant of knowing where your money is going : There’s much more tchat around servers’ salaries than there is around our stylists’. All these factors make the equation that much more difficult.

tera shed some light on what’s really going on at the mobilier, Glamour talked to stylists, assistants, and owners around the country to find out. From where your hard-earned cash goes to what ( and who ) you really should be tipping, read on for their unfiltered opinions and advice.

Salons run on a few business models—most commonly commission-based and booth rentals ( more on those later ). Commission, explains Siobhán Quinlan, a colorist at Art Autonomy Salon in NYC, means that employees are paid for the services performed, of which they only keep a portion, usually somewhere between 40 to 60 percent of the price. The remaining percentage goes to the mobilier for overhead costs like utilities, product used ( color, shampoo, conditioner, etc. ), and amenities for both équipe and clients.

There once was a time when we had to devote a huge amount of effort to uncover the truth about our beauty routines. Now we’re in a golden age of transparency. You can google just about any ingredient or Yelp whatever service and a wealth of reviews are available at the ready. And with social media holding brands accountable, they’re listening to our pleas and have begun providing the information we need to make informed decisions about the products we purchase. But there’s still one place where that ease of knowledge hasn’t extended : the salon.

Nicole Krzyminski, a stylist at Fringe salon in Chicago, breaks it down : “Say you’re getting a beautiful new color—your balayage, conditioning, and toning takes about three hours and costs around $250, ” she says. “After accounting for the overhead fees and product costs, the stylist gets about $100 of that pretax. ”

In some cases, stylists can also make money by convincing clients to buy a product that was used on them during their service. However, this represents a minuscule amount of revenue says Shira Devash Espinoza, a freelance stylist based in New Jersey. “When sérieux in a salon, you’re constantly pushed and ‘rewarded’ to sell, but only earn maybe 10 percent of it if you’re lucky, ” she says.

So what happens to Krzyminski’s hypothetical $100 ? The majority of it, she says, goes toward licensing fees, personal supplies, and tools ( blow-dryers, flatirons, curling irons ), and continuing education classes. That means even on a jam-packed day, a stylist may only make enough take home pay to cover the essentials of food, shelter, and clothing.

Tips, on the other hand, help pay for the supplemental benefits that those not in the service industry take for granted. Says Stephanie Brown, a colorist at Manhattan’s Nunzio Saviano Salon, “It’s a physically demanding travail, and most salons are too small to provide health benefits or paid vacations and sick days. ”

Ladda Phommavong, a stylist at Third Space Salon in Austin, Texas, says that those gratuities are what helped her become the in-demand stylist she is today. “The tips I received from clients meant being able to take outside courses to hone my craft, ” she says. “If clients knew I was saving up to take the master colorist course and that their tipping was directly contributing to me becoming a better stylist for them, I think they would definitely want to be a part of that. ”

Many stylists choose to forgo the commission-based life and instead strike out on their own by renting booths in expositions. This basically means paying a weekly or monthly fee—our stylist sources said they generally pay around $120 a week or $880 a month, depending on where they are based—to reserve a semipermanent spot to see clients. In these cases, stylists keep 100 percent of their service fee as well as their tips. The downside ? “We pay for absolutely everything—refreshments, cups, capes, color bowls, foils, brushes, scissors, styling products, ” says Jennifer Riney of Brushed Salon in Oklahoma City. They are also on the hook for paying liability insurance and credit card fees.

Freelancers like Sarah Finn, who rents a peau at The Ritz Day Spa

Another option for freelancers is the coworking mobilier. Arturo Swayze, the founder and CEO of ManeSpace in NYC, is a pioneer of this relatively new setup. He provides short-term rentals for stylists who don’t need or want a regular stint in a salon. Stylists reserve a time slot, use an app to unlock the space, and see their clientele as needed. But even in this scenario, says Swayze, there is still uncertainty.

“Because the coworking model is so new, people really don’t know what proper tipping etiquettes are, ” he explains. “Tipping is still an important aspect for these hairstylists. They are independent, but essentially have all the expenses of a mobilier owner, but they’re not drawing income from other stylists. ”

“Each stylist is running their own small in a way, ” says Nicole Wilder of Paragon Salons in Cincinnati. “We have relied on tips as a part of our salaries for decades. We kind of signed up for that as part of it. But we work hard on our feet to make you feel beautiful. ”

Assistants are the unsung heroes of the salon industry—and some of the most neglected. They are involved in almost every aspect of your service. “Our duties as an assistant helping a stylist are to shampoo all clients for haircuts, apply toners, blow-dry, and mix color, ” says Ocean McDaeth, one of the assistants at Art Autonomy. “We’re also in charge of setting up the stylists for each service, keeping their stations as well as the salon clean, doing laundry, and greeting clients and making sure they are comfortable throughout [their visit]. ”

Since assistants don’t perform technical services, they’re usually paid a day rate by the mobilier owner. Many times the stylists they assist will also tip them out with a small percentage of the day’s take. “Being a hairdresser has a huge financial obligation. I think it’s fair to say we as assistants really do rely on our tips. Without them I have no idea how I’d survive in NYC, ” McDaeth admits.

It’s important to note that assistants aren’t the norm in smaller salons and outside of big cities. High-end expositions with a large clientele tend to hire assistants as a way to let a stylist book more appointments. If the assistant is washing your hair, this allows the stylist to have another client in their peau. When done well, you might not even notice your stylist or colorist is sérieux with one or two other people in addition to you. This maximizes the stylists’ time and earning power, making assistants integral to a prestige salon’s operation.

While having assistants is a lifesaver for hairdressers, it can be a nightmare for clients if you’re trying to figure out who to tip. In large expositions, you can have up to 10 different people touching your hair, notes Jon Reyman, a master stylist and co-owner of Spoke

Of course, there’s no way to know if that is your salon’s economic ecology, so in general, think about what the assistant has done for you. If they are shampooing, applying gloss, and/or doing your postcut blowout, it’s a good idea to throw something their way. ( See our cheat sheet, below, for more on what exactly to give. )

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